The Italian Riviera

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Genova

“Dear readers,” it is Saturday, December 2nd, and I after 8 months find myself once again at Milan’s airport. Today, the journey is not to Naples or Rome but to the Italian Riviera! I know, this is not the most logical time of the year to visit the Italian Riviera, but for me, it’s perfect. I spend most of the year among tourists, so a tourist-free Riviera is a true paradise for me 🤗.

Today, I am not waiting for a connecting flight but for the Flixbus to Genova. As I sit here waiting, beautiful memories come back from my last visit to the Riviera. I realize it’s been an incredibly long time, back to the beautiful days of Interrailing! Long train journeys from the Netherlands to Greece and back through Italy. The time of the camping in Albenga, Italian friends, some of whom have stayed in touch for a long time, and “il bellissimo Massimo”…. 😍.

This trip also came unexpectedly on my path. A few weeks ago, I received an invitation from my good friend Walter to come to Genova, and I grabbed that chance with both hands because Genova is a beautiful city and also, very close to some places still on my bucket list, such as Cinque Terre and Portofino

Now I am on the bus to Genova, ready for a week of enjoying all the beauty and deliciousness that this part of Italy has to offer. At the same time, it’s a great opportunity to brush up on my Italian 😊. The weather forecast is not great, but that won’t dampen my spirits.

Nervi – Quinto and Boccadasse Beach

Today, I’ll take you on a beautiful walk along the coast of Genova. It’s a long walk, to be precise, a very long walk (24 km), but, of course, you can shorten this distance or take parts of it by public transport. We depart from the central station “Stazione Brignole” by bus to the district “Nervi.” You can buy bus tickets at a tobacco shop, and they are valid for 100 minutes, but it’s much more convenient to buy your tickets via the “Trainline” app.

https://www.thetrainline.com/en-us/trains/europe – for all bus and train tickets

Stazione Brignole is a beautiful building from 1868 that, despite various renovations and modifications, has retained its historical charm. The station is named after the Brignole district where it is located. So even if you don’t plan to travel by public transport, it’s still worth a visit.

Nervi

Nervi is about 8 km from the city centre, so a short bus ride. Once arrived in “Nervi,” I was surprised at every turn. I don’t feel like I’m in a big city at all. It’s green, with brightly coloured houses and bits of history here and there.

From Nervi, there’s a beautiful walking path called “Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi” that takes you back to the centre of Genova. The views are breathtaking, and the weather gods are surprisingly kind to me!

It’s Sunday, and the walking path is pleasantly busy. I immediately notice how well-dressed all these Italians are; it’s a feast for the eyes. Even their dogs seem to match the outfits; I’ve never seen so many Golden Retrievers and Blue Border Collies together.

Somewhere halfway along this walking path is Salvatore’s restaurant, Salvatore is Walter’s friend. The name of the restaurant is “Thermopolium da Salva,” and from your table, you have a beautiful view of the Ligurian Sea and coastline.

Le Trofie al Pesto con Patate e Fagiolini

Of course, it’s time to eat! I decide to go for a dish with the famous “Pesto Genovese.” The choice is “Trofie al Pesto Genovese con patate e fagiolini.” I enjoy this pasta dish very much, so at the end, I’ll share the recipe for this delightful dish with you.

Now, the energy level is restored, and we continue the path towards Genova. It’s a succession of beautiful and colourful views, and eventually, we reach “Spiaggia di Boccadasse.” When I catch the first glimpse of the beach, my face lights up. What a beautiful place! The small beach and square are bustling because it’s “aperitivo time.”

Spiaggia di Boccadasse

The colourful houses along this beach create an almost fairytale atmosphere in this part of Genova, and there’s a super relaxed vibe.

Boccadasse Genova

After this long day, we enjoy a delicious Negroni with a satisfied feeling, and then it’s time to put our feet up.

Cinque Terre

Against all expectations, we decide to go to Cinque Terre, one of my bucket list items. Cinque Terre consists of 5 colourful villages on the Ligurian coast, about 100 km from Genova. The weather is much better than expected, so “andiamo”!!

The train to “Cinque Terre” also departs from Stazione Brignole, and the travel time from Genoa to Riomaggiore is about 1.5 hours. You can best buy your train tickets via “Trainline” – https://www.thetrainline.com/en-us/trains/europe  because this app is very easy to use. We start in Riomaggiore because this village is the farthest from Genova, and the plan is to walk along the “Via dell’Amore” (Path of Love) to Manarola. Unfortunately, the path is closed due to maintenance for the next few months ☹️. That’s the risk of travelling off-season.

Riomaggiore

The only option is to take the train back to one of the other villages, and we choose Monterosso, the largest of the five. We find a lovely spot with a fantastic sea view, and a delicious focaccia with an Aperol Spritz is always a good idea.

Monterosso

Monterosso is livelier than the other villages, and you can find some historical moments here, like the medieval “Torre Aurora” and the church of San Giovanni Batista.

I genuinely love all those warm colours and the charm of those narrow streets.

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Another small tip, even though I enjoy peace, it might be better to visit Cinque Terre in spring or fall. A bit more liveliness and an open hiking trail enhance the joy, but one thing is certain; this region is absolutely worth a visit!

Genova and the Aquarium

Okay… today, the weather gods are a bit less favourable, it’s very cold and rainy. In short, an ideal day to visit the large aquarium of Genova.

But first, we’ll have a delicious cappuccino with the famous Panarello. This delicious cake comes in various flavours and is best enjoyed at “Pasticceri Panarello” (since 1885) in the centre of Genova.

The Genova Aquarium is the largest in Italy. Here, you’ll find more than 12,000 sea creatures, from manatees and penguins to the most beautiful jellyfish. A true explosion of shapes and colours!

The aquarium is located in the old harbour, in the centre of Genova. So, it’s an ideal starting point to stroll through the narrow streets “Vicoli” of this beautiful city. And guess what… it’s still cold, but it’s not raining anymore.

Fontana Piazza de Ferrari

A pitstop at “Antica Cremeria Buonafede” is a must. You’ll find Buonafede in Via Luccoli, Nº 12r. In the colder months of the year, I strongly recommend trying a “Colombino.” No… it really can’t be compared to our hot chocolate. This one is irresistible and so thick that your spoon almost stands upright.

And, of course, this is not the end of the journey. Next time, we’ll continue to the beautiful places of  Portofino and Portovenere, and we’ll end in Milan.

And now, here’s the promised recipe for Le Trofie al Pesto con Patate e Fagiolini

Ingredients:

• 500 g Trofie or similar dried pasta
• 300 g Potatoes
• 100 g French Beans/Haricot verts

For the pesto:

• 80 g Basil
• 60 g Parmesan cheese
• 40 g Pecorino
• 50 g Pine nuts
• 1 clove of garlic
• 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Coarse salt

Instructions:

1. To prepare Trofie al Pesto with Potatoes and Green Beans, start by preparing the pesto. Don’t forget to put the blender in the freezer for at least half an hour. Clean the basil leaves well and dry them with a soft cloth, then grate the Pecorino and Parmesan cheese. Once the bowl is cool, add the basil, garlic, and coarse salt. Mix at intervals and then add the pine nuts. Mix again at intervals and add a drop of olive oil. Mix again and finally add the grated cheese. Mix well until you get a smooth sauce.
2. Wash and clean the green beans, peel the potatoes, and cut them into pieces. Take a pan, fill it with water, salt it, and boil the green beans in it for a few minutes. Add the potatoes and a little oil and cook for another 2 minutes. Now add the trofie pasta and cook for another 7 minutes. Drain the pasta and vegetables while they are still slightly al dente and make sure to save some pasta cooking water.
3. Now, take a soup terrine and pour the Trofie with potatoes and green beans into it, add the pesto, add a little pasta cooking water, and stir well to mix all the ingredients. Serve the Trofie al Pesto with potatoes and green beans while it’s still warm.

In a few weeks, I’ll be back with part 2, but for now, I wish you all happy holidays! 🎄🍾🥂

A Presto !

 

 

This post is also available in: Nederlands (Dutch)